Oceanography

Lesson 5: Shoreline Erosion (Where's the Beach?)

Grade Level: 8th 

Subject: Science and Math 

Learner Outcomes: 

  1. Realize that the forces of nature are constant, unrelenting and immediate. 
  2. Understand the erosional and depositional processes that occur along coastlines and the causes of each. 
  3. Recognize and explain the formation of various coastline features. 
  4. Compare the effects of waves vs. longshore currents on shorelines. 
  5. Understand the different methods of controlling coastal erosion and the pros and cons of implementing each one. 
  6. Practice making contour maps and use math to figure rates of erosion, to work with size scales and to create charts and graphs. 
  7. Become aware of some of the dangers of swimming in unfamiliar coastal areas and learn how recognize and avoid rip currents..

Duration of Lesson:  2-5  45 minute class periods 

Materials per group: 

  1. Stream table with clamp for outflow 
  2. Water 
  3. Graph paper 
  4. Plexiglas sheets or heavy clear plastic sheets 
  5. Rocks, pebbles, sticks, etc. to build erosion prevention structures 6.  Sand 
  6. Stop watch 
  7. Grease pencils or markers in red & black 
  8. "Wave generator" 
  9. Salt (for enrichment activity)

Technology tools/Courseware: 

  1. Calculator, preferably with graphing capabilities 
  2. Computer with internet connection (optional) 
  3. Computer printer (optional)

Teacher Notes: 

  1. I recommend that the plexiglas sheets cover about 2/3 of the length of the stream table.  This allows plenty of open space to generate waves and still have plenty of room to record the contours at the beach end.  Also, I have found that a 1 inch grid on the plexiglas works very well.  This can easily be translated to 1/4" or 1/2" grids on graph paper. 
  2. I always do this lab outside to avoid the inevitable messes that occur during the activity.  Also, I can just dump the sand and rinse the stream tables before bringing them back inside. 
  3. Mark a grid on the underside of the plexiglas or plastic so that it will not be erased when the marks are erased from each simulation. 
  4. I use small rectangles of ceramic tile to represent the various jetties, seawalls, etc. 
  5. The "wave generator" is simply a flat piece of wood that can be used by the students to create their waves. 
  6. Have students practice with the "wave generator" until they are able to produce reasonably uniform wave action. 
  7. Point out the various formations as they appear, as they will change as each simulation progresses.  Point out places where rip currents are likely to form,  explain the implications to swimmers and how to avoid being dragged out to sea and drowned by these. (First by avoiding it, or if that is not possible,  by swimming across the current rather than against it.) Make sure they all recognize places where these extremely dangerous currents are likely to be found. 
  8. Repeatedly remind students that these are fairly accurate simulations in miniature of actions that are actually happening every day along our coastlines.

Procedures: 

Part A: 
  1. Set up stream table by building a gently sloping beach in one end and adding water to the other end. 
  2. Tape the plexiglas grid onto the top of the stream table with the prepared grid side down toward the water. 
  3. Mark the contours of the beach on the top of the plexiglas with the black marker to show the original position of the beach. 
  4. Have one student make waves for 2 minutes, timed by another student.  Stop and use a red marker to trace the new beach contour on the plexiglas. 
  5. Repeat step 4 several more times, recording the changes in the beach contours after each 2 minute interval. 
  6. Transpose the patterns of contour changes to graph paper by changing the scale from plexiglas grid to graph grid. 
  7. Use calculator to determine the rate of erosion of each trial and graph results.

Part B: 

  1. Rebuild the beach to match the original contour. 
  2. Repeat steps 2-7 above with much more vigorous wave action to simulate storm damage. 
  3. Compare and contrast normal and storm erosion.

Part C: 

  1. Design and create simulations to show the effects of various methods of erosion control along sandy beaches.  (Jetties, groins, seawalls can be made from rocks, ceramic tile, or clay.  Riprap can be made using gravel.  Barrier islands can be made from additional sand) 
  2. Repeat the steps 2-7 from Part A. 
  3. Determine the most effective methods of erosion control.

Part D: 

  1. Set up a simulation in which the beach is located along the side of the stream table so that the currents will appear as longshore currents rather than as waves hitting the beach straight on. 
  2. Create an inlet and simulate the effect of the longshore current on it.  Again use markers to show the contours of the beach on the plexiglas cover and the effects of the currents at regular intervals.  Transfer these results to graph paper. 
  3. Recreate the inlet and add jetties to attempt to protect it from erosion.  Record the effects on the plexiglas and transfer them to graph paper.

Modifications: 

  1. Stream tables can be made by lining the tops of paper boxes with plastic.  Good results can be had by taping two box tops together end to end. 
  2. Heavy clear plastic can be substituted for the Plexiglas by being stretched across the top of the stream table and taped tightly to the sides.  This has the advantage of students being able to remove the plastic without losing the data recorded on it.  This is particularly handy if another class follows immediately and must use the same stream tables. 
  3. Repeat the simulation using sand with different sizes of grains or by mixing some very fine sand in with larger grains of a different color or texture.  Watch for formation of lines of "heavies" (bands caused by the deposition of sand according to differences in mass of its particles).

Enrichment Activities: 

  1. Create beach scenes in sizes proportional to actual sizes to represent such things as homes, lighthouses, people, trees, etc. and describe what happens to them in normal and storm simulations. 
  2. Set up hypotheses and design experiments to show erosion along various types of coastlines.  (Use rocks, tiles, gravel, etc. to form a rocky coastline and simulate erosional patterns for that type of coastal area.) 
  3. Design and perform simulations to show how various coastal geological formations such as sea arches, stacks, offshore bars, spits, etc. are formed by wave actions. 
  4. Observe the creation of a delta by using a stream of fresh water to simulate a river and having it flow through sand or soil into the ocean (a saturated salt water solution). 
  5. Set up a debate between "fishermen" who want jetties built to protect their inlet and "conservationists" who are afraid that the jetties, if built, will destroy wildlife habitats and wetlands as well as cause extreme erosion of beaches along the coast.  Before doing this, I recommend that students see the VCR tape "The Challenge On The Coasts" (of the Conserving America series). 
  6. Explore local vicinity to look for erosional problems caused by water and decide how they might be addressed.

Evaluation/Assessment: 

Subjective: 
  1. Observation 
  2. Informal questions and answers 
  3. Class and group discussion 

Objective: 

  1. Test on terminology and concepts 
  2. Grade graphs and diagrams by using a rubric 
  3. Grade written reports from each group

West Virginia State Instructional Goals and Objectives:

Science/Math: 8.1, 8.2, 8.3, 8.5, 8.6, 8.7, 8.8, 8.9, 8.10, 8.11, 8.12, 8.13, 8.14, 8.15, 8.16, 8.17, 8.18, 8.19, 8.20, 8.21, 8.22, 8.23, 8.24, 8.25, 8.26, 8.27, 8.54, 8.70, 8.84, 8.89, 8.96 8.9, 8.10, 8.11, 8.18, 8.26, 8.40, 8.44, 8.50 

National Standards:

Science:

  • Understands Earth's composition and structure 
    • Knows that the Earth is comprised of layers including a core, mantle, lithosphere, hydrosphere, and atmosphere 
    • Knows how land forms are created through a combination of constructive and destructive forces (e.g., constructive forces such as crustal deformation, volcanic eruptions, and deposition of sediment; destructive forces such as weathering and erosion)
  • Understands the nature of scientific knowledge 
    • Understands the nature of scientific explanations (e.g., use of logically consistent arguments; emphasis on evidence; use of scientific principles, models and theories; acceptance or displacement of explanations based on new scientific evidence)
  • Understands the nature of scientific inquiry 
    • Knows that there is no fixed procedure called "the scientific method", but  that investigations involve systematic observations, carefully collected, relevant evidence, logical reasoning, and some imagination in developing hypotheses and explanations 
    • Designs and conducts a scientific investigation (e.g., formulates hypotheses, designs and executes investigations, interprets data, synthesizes evidence into explanations, proposes alternative explanations for observations, critiques explanations and procedures)
    • Knows that observations can be affected by bias (e.g., strong beliefs about what should happen in particular circumstances can prevent the detection of other results)
    • Establishes relationships based on evidence and logical argument (e.g., provides causes for effects)

Math: 

  • Uses a variety of strategies in the problem-solving process 
    • Represents problem situations in and translates among oral, written, concrete, pictorial, and graphical forms 
    • Generalizes from a pattern of observations made in particular cases, makes conjectures, and provides supporting arguments for these conjectures (i.e., uses inductive reasoning)
    • Uses a variety of reasoning processes (e.g., reasoning from a counter example, using proportionality) to model and to solve problems
  • Understands and applies basic and advanced properties of the concepts of measurement 
    • Selects and uses appropriate units and tools, depending on degree of accuracy required, to find measurements for real-world problems
  • Understands the general nature and uses of mathematics 
    • Understands that mathematics has been helpful in practical ways for many centuries 
    • Understands that mathematicians often represent real things using abstract ideas like numbers or lines:  they then work with these abstractions to learn about the things they represent

Job/Career Clusters: 

  • Science/Natural Resources 
  • Engineering/Technical

References: 

Authors: Bryan BarnettPat Ryan and Judy Staats
 
 
Overview
Lesson 1
Lesson 2
Lesson 3
Lesson 4
Lesson 5

 
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